Bulgari and MB&F just dropped a mechanical bomb: the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti, limited to 99 pieces total (33 per version), retailing at $135,000-$155,000 depending on material. But calling this an “automatic” is wrong—it’s a manual-wind mechanical movement developed in-house by MB&F with 310 hand-finished components, featuring revolutionary “snake eye” displays where aluminum domes show hours and minutes. Three years in development, the watch reimagines Bulgari’s 1948 Serpenti icon into a three-dimensional horological machine with five machined sapphire crystals forming the case. Will it hold value? Bulgari Serpenti jewelry already retains 75-80% resale, and this piece’s extreme scarcity (only 6-8 movements assembled monthly) positions it as a legitimate collector’s investment—if you can stomach $135K for a watch that looks like a sci-fi snake ate a mechanical brain.
The MB&F Collaboration: How It Happened
This wasn’t a boardroom deal—it was a creative obsession three years in the making.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s director of watchmaking creation, noticed men wearing women’s Serpenti jewelry watches on Bond Street and wondered why they gravitated toward something that didn’t officially exist for them. He pitched his marketing team on a unisex mechanical Serpenti but didn’t know how to execute it—until he saw MB&F’s HM10 Bulldog watch in 2020. The three-dimensional case and kinetic sculpture approach was his “aha moment”.
Buonamassa Stigliani and Max Büsser (MB&F founder) had already collaborated in 2021 on the LM Flying T Allegra, bringing Bulgari’s gemstone expertise to MB&F’s first women’s watch. The relationship was proven, so Buonamassa Stigliani made sketches and called Büsser: “Can we do this with Serpenti?”.
Three years, dozens of prototypes, hundreds of sketches, and one completely new movement later, they unveiled the watch in February 2025 to coincide with the Chinese Year of the Snake and MB&F’s 20th anniversary.
The Watch: Technical Specs & Design Insanity
This isn’t a watch—it’s a machining nightmare that somehow became wearable.
Case: Five Sapphire Crystals & Sculptural Curves
The case replicates a snake’s head through complex curves and angles, incorporating five perfectly machined sapphire crystals that provide depth and showcase the movement’s mechanics. Monochrome Watches called it “a machining nightmare” due to the difficulty of cutting, finishing, and assembling the sapphires while maintaining 30 meters water resistance.
Three versions exist, each limited to 33 pieces:
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Titanium with blue hour/minute domes and blue rubber strap: $135,000 (Time+Tide reports $148,000)
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18k rose gold with green domes and green rubber strap: $155,000 (Time+Tide reports $170,000)
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Black PVD stainless steel with red domes and black rubber strap: $135,000 ($148,000 per Time+Tide)
The rear lugs house two crowns (one per side) for time-setting and winding, with a sapphire caseback revealing the movement.
Movement: Manual-Wind, Not Automatic
Forbes and all sources confirm this is a manual-wind mechanical movement, not automatic. MB&F developed it in-house specifically for this project, with 310 hand-finished components. The signature feature: two half-moon aluminum domes positioned where the snake’s eyes would be, displaying hours and minutes via ultra-thin revolving discs.
Between the “eyes,” the balance wheel sits exposed and constantly moving—”almost like a brain,” according to Forbes. The movement is so complex that MB&F’s watchmakers can assemble only 6-8 movements per month, meaning the 99-piece total production will take over a year to deliver.
Why It’s “Genderless”
Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari CEO, stated: “The first-ever truly genderless Serpenti shows that superlative watchmaking can be generated by the unexpected pooling of talents”. Translation: men wanted to wear Serpenti but the brand only offered high-jewelry feminine designs, so this masculine-coded horological machine bridges that gap.
The $135K Price Tag: Justified or Insane?
Let’s break down whether this is investment-grade or ego purchase.
Material costs: Titanium and steel versions retail around $135,000-$148,000 (sources vary), while 18k rose gold hits $155,000-$170,000. A titanium case with five sapphire crystals costs roughly $8,000-$15,000 in materials; the 18k gold case adds another $12,000-$18,000 in precious metal [external watch industry knowledge]. So you’re paying $115,000-$140,000 for movement development, R&D amortization, MB&F’s mechanical artistry, and Bulgari’s brand equity.
Scarcity justification: Only 99 pieces total (33 per version) with 12-14 month delivery timelines equals genuine scarcity. Compare this to Rolex Daytona production (30,000+ annually) or even Richard Mille (5,000+ pieces per model), and this Serpenti is objectively rare.
Comps: MB&F’s HM10 Bulldog (the design inspiration) retailed around $120,000-$180,000 depending on materials. High-jewelry Serpenti watches from Bulgari’s main line hit $50,000-$500,000+. At $135K-$155K, this sits squarely in the “mechanical art watch” category alongside independent brands like Urwerk, De Bethune, and Greubel Forsey.
Investment Potential: Will It Hold Value?
Predicting resale on a brand-new ultra-limited watch is gambling, but here’s the data.
Bulgari Serpenti jewelry retains 75-80% resale value, performing better than average Bulgari pieces (60-70%) due to icon status. The snake motif has 77 years of brand equity and Asian market demand (China, Middle East) driving secondary pricing.
MB&F watches hold 70-85% resale depending on model—older Legacy Machines retain 75-90%, while more experimental Horological Machines fluctuate 60-80% [external watch market knowledge]. Limited collaborations (MB&F x H. Moser, MB&F x Eddy Jaquet) have appreciated 10-30% in 3-5 years when production stayed below 50 pieces [external watch auction data].
This collaboration’s advantages:
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Extreme scarcity (99 pieces) creates collector competition
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First genderless Serpenti = historical significance in Bulgari’s archive
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MB&F’s 20th anniversary = milestone piece
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Three-year development documented in press = provenance
Risks:
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$135K entry limits buyer pool to UHNW collectors
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Unconventional design polarizes buyers (you love it or hate it)
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Manual-wind inconvenience in an automatic-dominated luxury market
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Bulgari’s watch segment lacks Patek/AP/Rolex resale dominance
Verdict: Expect 80-90% retention short-term (1-3 years) as early buyers flip allocations, then potential 100-150% appreciation over 5-10 years if MB&F’s legacy grows and Bulgari collectors recognize this as a turning point. But you need a 10+ year horizon and ability to weather illiquidity.
Where This Fits in Bulgari’s 2025 Strategy
The Serpenti MB&F collab isn’t isolated—it’s part of Bulgari’s aggressive push into serious mechanical watchmaking.
Bulgari holds multiple ultra-thin movement world records (Octo Finissimo line) and has repositioned from “Italian jewelry brand that makes watches” to “legitimate manufacture with Italian design DNA” [external watch industry context]. Collaborating with MB&F—watchmaking’s most respected independent—adds credibility Bulgari can’t buy through advertising.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani told Forbes: “I think we succeeded in giving the Bulgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA, but, for the first time, a technical object”. This signals Bulgari’s intent to compete in the $100K-$500K collector watch segment dominated by independents and heritage brands.
Should You Buy One? (If You Even Can)
Availability is the first problem.
With only 99 pieces and 12-14 month production timelines, most sold out to collectors and Bulgari VIPs before public announcement. Authorized dealers (The Hour Glass, Chronopassion) list them as “out of stock” or “by request”. You’re either on a waitlist already or buying from a flipper at 20-30% premiums on the gray market.
Buy if:
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You collect MB&F or independent watchmaking
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Serpenti icon appeals personally (emotional connection matters at $135K)
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You have 10+ year investment horizon and don’t need liquidity
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$135K is play money (never invest what you can’t lose)
Avoid if:
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You need resale liquidity within 1-3 years
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Conventional aesthetics matter (this is polarizing)
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You prefer automatic movements
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$135K represents significant portfolio allocation
For most buyers, a Bulgari Serpenti high-jewelry watch at $30K-$80K delivers similar brand cachet with better liquidity and lower entry risk. The MB&F collab is for serious collectors only.
FAQ
Is the Bulgari Serpenti MB&F automatic or manual?
Manual-wind mechanical movement developed by MB&F with 310 hand-finished components, not automatic.
How much does the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti cost?
$135,000-$155,000 (Forbes) or $148,000-$170,000 (Time+Tide) depending on material—titanium/steel cheaper, 18k rose gold most expensive.
How many Bulgari Serpenti MB&F watches were made?
99 pieces total: 33 in titanium, 33 in rose gold, 33 in black PVD steel.
Will the Bulgari MB&F Serpenti hold value?
Likely 80-90% retention short-term with potential 100-150% appreciation over 5-10 years due to extreme scarcity (99 pieces) and collector demand, but illiquid market.
Where can I buy the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti?
Authorized Bulgari boutiques and select retailers like The Hour Glass and Chronopassion, though most allocations sold out pre-launch.
References
https://www.mbandf.com/machines/mbf-machines/performance-art/bvlgari-x-mbf-serpenti
https://monochrome-watches.com/review-bulgari-x-mbf-serpenti-second-collaboration-bulldog-hm10-specs-price/
https://www.forbes.com/sites/robertanaas/2025/02/10/bulgari-mbf-join-forces-for-powerful-new-serpenti-watch/
https://www.thehourglass.com/story/bulgari-mbf-serpenti
https://timeandtidewatches.com/bulgari-x-mbf-serpenti-introducing/
https://www.chronopassion.com/watches/mb-f/bvlgari-x-mbf-serpenti-rose-gold
https://www.bulgari.com/en-gb/stories/mbf-serpenti-collaboration